Surprising growth with herdshares

Creambrook Farm has navigated growing pains and successes

By Martha Hoffman Kerestes

Middlebrook, Virginia — Five years ago, Ben and Kristen Beichler (Graze February 2020) were milking 32 cows once a day for a slowly growing raw milk herdshare called Creambrook farm, serving 470 families weekly about three years into their business venture. Today there are 3,400 families a week getting milk from 120 cows milked twice daily.

They’d just hired their first part-time employee back then, and today there are 14 on payroll, mostly full time, including Ben and Kristen.

“Kristen and I were laughing thinking over what’s changed,” Ben says. “In the last five years we’ve probably lived more life than any other five-year span.”

The Covid-19 pandemic produced the first big bump in sales.

“Demand absolutely exploded overnight,” Ben says. “We had already planned 2020 to be a growth year with new cows and equipment investments, so we were in a position to take advantage when the first waves came in, but interest was so strong it quickly overran us in terms of production and capabilities.”

November 8, 2024

Processor values grassfed demand

Nordik Meats finds success serving a variety of alternative meat producers

By Joel McNair

Viroqua, Wisconsin — “If there was no such thing as grassfed beef,” says Joel Morrison, “We wouldn’t be as successful as we are.”

Lots of grass farmers might make such a statement, but Joel is not one of them. Instead he is the general manager for Nordik Meats, an unusual meat processor with an uncommon ownership structure that produces some interesting end products in addition to the usual sides, quarters, and retail cuts.

Beef tallow, pork lard, bone broth — these and other products often associated with micro-processing ventures are a growing part of Nordik Meats, a USDA-inspected plant with 25 employees serving a handful of grassfed/alternative meat marketing organizations in addition to much smaller producers having processing done for their own consumption and direct-market sales.

Certainly the traditional cuts account for the bulk of Nordik’s business. Grassfed beef and lamb, plus pastured pigs, are by no means everything the plant does: Joel says that grassfed accounts for roughly half of the total volume here.

But Joel sees grassfed meats and the associated added-value products as important to Nordik’s future as “cornerstone” customers such as 99 Counties (Graze January 2023) and Wisconsin Meadows innovate and grow, and smaller, often direct-to-market ventures tap rising interest in grass-finished, organic, and local meats.

September 30, 2024

Bringing a new generation into dairy

MacKenzie Wallace finds a place on 156-year-old grazing farm

By Martha Hoffman Kerestes

Whitingham, Vermont — MacKenzie Wallace knew he wanted to make a career in the grazing dairy world. He also knew it would be a challenge since there was no family farm to work into.

A few turns in the road later, this young Dairy Grazing Apprenticeship (DGA) graduate is working with seasoned dairy grazier Leon Corse in south-central Vermont (Graze April 2020) where he completed his apprenticeship in 2021.

When MacKenzie first came back as hired labor earlier this year, he started taking on more management decisions. He is now being transitioned into the operation more fully.

They’re both optimistic about the future.

Getting into dairy

MacKenzie didn’t grow up on a farm, but he gravitated toward agriculture nonetheless.

August 6, 2024August 6, 2024

Finding opportunities in obstacles

From low milk prices to 100% raw sales with the CSA model

By Martha Hoffman Kerestes

Alfred Station, New York — After four decades of dairying, hauling costs and low milk prices made shipping grassfed organic milk unsustainable for the Snyders. Sometimes the milk check hardly covered the electric bill.

For Kelby and Kristina and Kelby’s father Jerry, there were two choices: stop dairying or massively scale raw milk sales.

The odds looked stacked against the raw milk option. The farm isn’t in a densely populated or wealthy area, New York regulations only permit on-farm sales, and current raw milk customers were relatively few. It was going to take some serious creativity to make a go of it.

In the face of the unknowns, the family took a leap of faith and gave notice to their milk buyer in November 2022. The milk truck came for the last time on April 29, 2023.

CSAs were the ticket

Existing raw milk sales were consistently 30-50 gallons a week. The 45-cow herd milked once a day was producing about 500 gallons weekly, so the Snyders needed to make ten times the current sales. A tall order, but they believed the demand would be there and therefore didn’t scale down the cow herd.

June 4, 2024

Custom heifers and direct-sale meat

Redetzkes build a farm around grazing and diversification

By Martha Hoffman Kerestes

Colby, Wisconsin — Flexibility and fluidity are the strategies of choice for Mike and Gina Redetzke as they pay off their farm and raise a young family.

They started out planning to raise and finish Holstein steers, but when beef markets were down and a family member needed a place to raise replacement dairy heifers, the couple decided to pivot.

“There were opportunities, and we took them,” Mike explains.

Soon, more dairy farmers came knocking, and custom raising heifers for a handful of confinement dairy farmers became the main farm income in addition to a growing direct market meat sideline.

May 1, 2024

Starting a grass dairy in corn and hog country

Love of grazing led to launch of new venture

By Martha Hoffman Kerestes

Paullina, Iowa – Torray and Erin Wilson lost their organic route before they could even start dairying, but that didn’t stop them.

The couple persisted past many other bumps in the road, and today milk 120 organic, fall-seasonal cows in northwestern Iowa. The dairy fits well into the familyís farm system as a whole, and creativity has made it sustainable.

For decades the farm had been a 600-acre grain and 300-litter farrow-to-finish outdoor hog operation. It was fully certified organic in 2011.

The family decreased the hogs to 40 litters a year in 2002 and continued selling hogs to Niman Ranch. They did some ewe and cow/calf custom grazing, but were looking for a ruminant venture with higher profit potential and organic premiums. This venture was needed to utilize the forage produced in the organic crop rotation and possibly walk some grain off the farm, too.

That desire started the ball rolling toward dairy, even though it’s a major counter-cultural move to establish a new grazing dairy and seed pastures in a place surrounded by hog CAFOs, 5,000-cow dairies, and row crop ground selling for $14,000-$20,000/acre.